Day 13 NZ Sat April 16

Nice not to have to repack the suitcase today. But what is this?... It’s raining, our first rain since Day 2. Also while my cold has gone it has left me with a sinus infection. Sort of wish I’d brought my antibiotics, then again I would then have to deal with gastro problems. A hacking cough and frequent nose blowing are better I think!

We visit Rainbow Springs , a bird sanctuary. At last I’m going to see some birds. There aren’t too many compared with Australia and I’ve missed them. A few cheeky Keas are in residence, behind bars otherwise they’d be tugging at our camera straps, scavenging our lollies and screaming in our ears. These were pretty quiet, probably depressed at being incarcerated.

I noticed a video running. It’s an excerpt from a David Attenborough doco about Keas, showing how strong their beaks are. I must revisit the DVD when I get back to OZ. Apparently they have the brain power of a five year old. In other words they’re like my grandson Mathew. Just think of the damage he could do to their new dog armed with beak and wings!!!  Kakas, also in residence, are almost as intelligent.

W arrive at the Kiwi enclosure. Being nocturnal, no photography is allowed and silence is requested. This group does not know the meaning of the word. Muttered rumblings become out and out conversations by the time we come out the other end. What’s with these people? A guru would be puling his beard out if this lot ever showed up at a silent retreat.


The Kiwi I saw also looked depressed, scurrying back and forth over the same ground occasionally digging away at some earth with its long beak. But my heart really goes out to the poor females. They have to carry an egg inside them that takes up to 30% of it’s body weight. Can’t blame them for handing over to dad once they’ve pushed the monstrosity out. He sits on it for 180 days. Once it hatches, neither parent goes near it.

Stuffed Kiwi with that mighty egg! 

No wonder they are endangered. They were almost wiped out by ferrets and stoats but are now protected. Nevertheless, only 5% of chicks survive in the wild, but if an egg is lucky enough to be picked up by someone with an incubator, it has a 75% chance of survival.

Our next trip is an optional extra. I’ve always wanted to go on one of those ducks, the amphibious vehicles that go on both land and water. Now I’ve been there, done that, I never want to go on one again. I don’t know which was worse, the smell of sulphur or the smell of diesel. Our guide was a handsome cheeky chappy, seating was rudimentary but photo ops were few because of the rain. This particular duck was built in 1945. Given that they were built to last only 5 or 6 weeks (because of the high casualty rate in WW11) this one is doing very well.

Black Swan at Rotorua. 

We learned, not for the first or last time, of the legend of Tutanekei and Hinemoa, the Maori version of Romeo and Juliet, although these two end up living happily ever after. Apparently the girl, Himenoa swam 3 kilometres from Mokoia island across the lake to be with her lover Tutanekei playing his melodic flute on the mainland. She was a princess, he a commoner. When the families saw how much they loved one another they let them marry. But they could not be buried together when they died.

The evening was spent at a hangi, a Maori feast of food steamed in the ground, cooked all day. Not sure if that was really how they cooked it but it was pretty good. My favourite was an uncooked dish, namely raw fish done with coconut milk, very delicious. Then the fun really began. A group of 4 Maori maidens and 5 men, 2 of them musicians, entertained us with songs of their culture. They invited women from the audience to dance with the poi, balls on string basically but very graceful. Later men were invited to try the Haka (the intimidatory dance the All Blacks do before a rugby match) It was hilarious especially when Ray, one of our tour leaders joined in. I got it all on video. In spite of the hilarity I learned a bit about the culture.

More steam in the distance.