Australia is a continent that’s been around for a while. I,560 billion years of rock formation in the Katherine Gorge according to Jaimie our guide of the Jarwoyn People as we glided through its majesty and beauty. Hence no fossils since it pre-dates living creatures. Awesome is a word used often and for the most minor of wonders, but Katherine Gorge actually deserves the adjective and many more. At one point Jaimie stopped the engine of the boat so we could feel the silence. Unfortunately most of the group did not tune in to the spirituality of the place as they started talking almost immediately. Pity. I would have enjoyed the silence.
We have a thunderbox on our bus. To the non Aussies among you that is a toilet. It is not one of those you sometimes find in coaches, it is more basic. Our driver has gone to great pains to tell us that it doesn’t get emptied until we reach our destination, Broome. He obviously doesn't want us to use it so we are taking great care not to in case we make Bushie mad. He's turning out to be a little moody.
Bushie is a typical Aussie, the lean type: tanned skin, good legs, ending in boots and strong socks. He likes a clean bus, always telling us to knock the red bull dust off our shoes when we’ve been on one of our excursions to a rock pool or swimming hole. He makes strong tea in an enormous kettle which made an appearance at our first stop at Adelaide River War Cemetery on the road to Katherine.
He is more comfortable in male company (a bit hard on him since females are in the majority); he is sexist (all women in service occupations are ‘chicky babes’ – much gnashing of teeth in the back seats whenever that shows up.); he’s ageist, mimicking the croaky voice of previous older passengers in some of his yarns. It’s as if he doesn’t realise he has a bus full of older women. He’s always banging on about the 'latte drinkers' and for some strange reason, wearers of clear plastic glasses (still haven’t figured that one out). He is taciturn and abrupt but when he does his commentary he is a mine of mangled words providing wonderful entertainment. I’ve christened them ‘Bushieisms’
Yesterday he described someone as ‘Charamystic.’ Isn’t it wonderful? I almost prefer it to charismatic. He also keeps telling us to wear our 'shrawls' in case it’s chilly. That’s a laugh, I haven’t been chilly one second since stepping out of Darwin airport. If the aircon is on full we are not aware of it, it’s cool but not freezing.
Traffic lights are scarce in this part of the country, only one in 1459kms. Apart from an extra put up by road repairers we didn’t see any until we reached Katherine. It is 300kms between petrol stations. Unlike most of the country with a speed limit of 110km per hour on freeways you can bomb along at 130kms up here.
Another stat up Bushie’s sleeve is that the Northern Territory boasts the largest consumption of alcohol in Australia and the second highest in the world. He didn’t say which area had the highest.
Leaving Darwin, we passed through Palmerston, a satellite town, reputed to be the fastest growing city in Australia, going from a population of 4000 to 26000 in no time. Labour in this area is in short supply. According to Bushie, if 500 semi skilled workers showed up at the weekend, they would have full time jobs by Monday. The pay is good although cost of living is high. Bushie himself is looking for a driver, wages $60.00 an hour.
Down the road a ways we entered Nitmiluk National Park and headed for the highest point of the journey, all of 70 metres above sea level! He took us to a wonderful swimming spot called Edith Falls. The water was warm, and clean. Best of all it is a high inland lake, no abseiling salties!
After lunch we cruised into Katherine, where after freshening up we went on a real cruise in Katherine Gorge, all in all 16kms long. The aforementioned Jaimie took us through the first gorge then guided us overland to the second one. Since the indigenous people have taken over management of the area they have put in steps and hand rails to help the more infirm of us to manage the 700 metres walk to the jetty in the second gorge.
Given that I’m writing this a few days later I can say that the Katherine Gorge cruise is a highlight. And the dinner cruise afterwards was good. From the complimentary glass of champagne onwards the food and service were excellent. At the end of the night we city dwellers shared the novelty of seeing a sky full of stars, magical.
About Me
- Pauline Reynolds
- Not as young as I was but young enough to be curious about the world and go places to write about it.
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Woman drought in Darwin
Before we made it to Crocosaurus Cove today, we were given a persoanlised key ring with a list of randomly selected seat numbers in the bus for the ten days of the trip(in the interests of fair seating arrangements). Nice touch. Good thinking, except...the numbers in the bus were themselves random, all over the place (weird). Some of us had numbers that did not appear on the bus. So we have to resort to counting down the seats from the front to find our allocated seat. Not that it matters, there are plenty to spare.
Salt water crocodiles are long, wide and heavy. The 'film star' in residence at Crocosaurus Cove in Darwin is Burt who featured in the film, 'Crocodile Dundee.' Now 80 years old he lives in enforced retirement in a tiny villa of concrete and glass, with a pool of course. With enormous jaws, and teeth poking up and down out of their mouths, the 'salties' look comical but their reputation tells you otherwise. When you read the bios of the crocs in residence there you realise them most of them are criminals, put in soliltary confinement to protect society!
They are mean and they are everywhere. If you are thinking of coming to the Top End to frolic in the ocean, forget it. According to Bushie, our bus driver, if the salties don't get you, the sea snakes will. If they don't get you the sharks will. If they don't get you the jelly fish lurk in large numbers in certain seasons to give you a very nasty sting.
In Darwin, city planners channelled sea water into an artificial lake in which the locals can swim safely, after putting a barrier across to keep the nasties out. It's called Lake Alexander and is well landscaped with lawn, barbecue areas and shade.
During our tour of Darwin, Bushie told us the average age of Darwin dwellers is 28, young compared with 38, the average for the Northern Territory. Could be that on census day, Darwin was full of backpackers who make up the largest proportion of the tourist industry.
We managed to prevent a mass exodus from the bus when Bushie told us there were 5 men to every 2.2 women! Those seat belts are good for something.
Have run out of time for this date's blog. Watch this space!
Goody goody. found a hotel with wirleless internet access! 2nd half of blog continues
Our bus tour included a stop at a lookout depicting the bombing of Darwin on Feb 19 1942. The town suffered 88 air raids in 18 months, had more bombs dropped on it than Pearl Harbour. After Sydney had suffered the incursion of a Japanese mini sub into their harbour, army engineers sought to prevent such an occurrence in Darwin so constructed a boom net 5.5kms wide across the mouth of the Harbour.
The other major disaster to hit Darwin was Cyclone Tracy. No respecter of Western Cultural traditions she hit town on Christmas Day in 1974. The cruel thing was people who thought they had ridden out the storm safely got hit by the back end when the eye of the hurricane passed. The wind was so strong it broke the wind measuring equipment. Eighty per cent of the town was wiped out, prompting the only mass evacuation of people in Australia’s history.
My travelling companion Kit, remembers getting the call at St Margaret’s Hospital in Sydney, to help out with the evacuated babies and children. They went to Kingsford Smith airport to meet them. A Boeing 747 (newly acquired by QANTAS) landed with 888 women, children and babies, some of them orphans. The plane’s capacity was 200 plus but it didn’t matter, the passengers had no luggage.
They rebuilt houses with flat roofs, and we passed a house where the occupants live underground. Bushie calls it the ‘upside down’ house. But what about the high rises? Water supply is by gravity and power supply is still unreliable. In the event of another big cyclone the penthouse dwellers or anyone above the third floor would be in trouble, trapped without light or water.
After spending the afternoon in a fruitless search for a Commonwealth Bank (there is one in Darwin) we arrived back at the hotel just in time to avoid a rain storm. We’d seen it hanging around and seen one or two locals referring to it so had an inkling it was an unusual occurrence. After all there are two months to go before The Wet.
Mercifully it had well cleared before our sunset cruise on Cullen Bay. We gussied up for a dinner that did not live up to it’s name although the prawns were good. Cold meats and salads made up the bill of fare. Our aqua group had fun however and we had a photo taken for our benefactor of the handmade farewell card and bottle of champagne.
With swollen aching feet, (it’s the heat and the sitting) we limped back to our air conditioned rooms by 9pm
Salt water crocodiles are long, wide and heavy. The 'film star' in residence at Crocosaurus Cove in Darwin is Burt who featured in the film, 'Crocodile Dundee.' Now 80 years old he lives in enforced retirement in a tiny villa of concrete and glass, with a pool of course. With enormous jaws, and teeth poking up and down out of their mouths, the 'salties' look comical but their reputation tells you otherwise. When you read the bios of the crocs in residence there you realise them most of them are criminals, put in soliltary confinement to protect society!
They are mean and they are everywhere. If you are thinking of coming to the Top End to frolic in the ocean, forget it. According to Bushie, our bus driver, if the salties don't get you, the sea snakes will. If they don't get you the sharks will. If they don't get you the jelly fish lurk in large numbers in certain seasons to give you a very nasty sting.
In Darwin, city planners channelled sea water into an artificial lake in which the locals can swim safely, after putting a barrier across to keep the nasties out. It's called Lake Alexander and is well landscaped with lawn, barbecue areas and shade.
During our tour of Darwin, Bushie told us the average age of Darwin dwellers is 28, young compared with 38, the average for the Northern Territory. Could be that on census day, Darwin was full of backpackers who make up the largest proportion of the tourist industry.
We managed to prevent a mass exodus from the bus when Bushie told us there were 5 men to every 2.2 women! Those seat belts are good for something.
Have run out of time for this date's blog. Watch this space!
Goody goody. found a hotel with wirleless internet access! 2nd half of blog continues
Our bus tour included a stop at a lookout depicting the bombing of Darwin on Feb 19 1942. The town suffered 88 air raids in 18 months, had more bombs dropped on it than Pearl Harbour. After Sydney had suffered the incursion of a Japanese mini sub into their harbour, army engineers sought to prevent such an occurrence in Darwin so constructed a boom net 5.5kms wide across the mouth of the Harbour.
The other major disaster to hit Darwin was Cyclone Tracy. No respecter of Western Cultural traditions she hit town on Christmas Day in 1974. The cruel thing was people who thought they had ridden out the storm safely got hit by the back end when the eye of the hurricane passed. The wind was so strong it broke the wind measuring equipment. Eighty per cent of the town was wiped out, prompting the only mass evacuation of people in Australia’s history.
My travelling companion Kit, remembers getting the call at St Margaret’s Hospital in Sydney, to help out with the evacuated babies and children. They went to Kingsford Smith airport to meet them. A Boeing 747 (newly acquired by QANTAS) landed with 888 women, children and babies, some of them orphans. The plane’s capacity was 200 plus but it didn’t matter, the passengers had no luggage.
They rebuilt houses with flat roofs, and we passed a house where the occupants live underground. Bushie calls it the ‘upside down’ house. But what about the high rises? Water supply is by gravity and power supply is still unreliable. In the event of another big cyclone the penthouse dwellers or anyone above the third floor would be in trouble, trapped without light or water.
After spending the afternoon in a fruitless search for a Commonwealth Bank (there is one in Darwin) we arrived back at the hotel just in time to avoid a rain storm. We’d seen it hanging around and seen one or two locals referring to it so had an inkling it was an unusual occurrence. After all there are two months to go before The Wet.
Mercifully it had well cleared before our sunset cruise on Cullen Bay. We gussied up for a dinner that did not live up to it’s name although the prawns were good. Cold meats and salads made up the bill of fare. Our aqua group had fun however and we had a photo taken for our benefactor of the handmade farewell card and bottle of champagne.
With swollen aching feet, (it’s the heat and the sitting) we limped back to our air conditioned rooms by 9pm
Friday, August 27, 2010
Teeny tiny Toblerone
That was dessert on the QANTAS jet taking our travel group to Darwin yesterday. I tried to photgraph it in relation to a teacup, a wine glass and a telephone but it didn't look as tiny as it was.
Should I mention the heat that hit us when we left the airport? Hard to do while avoiding cliches like blast furnace, hot oven, steam bath etc. so I won't!
Bushie (I kid you not) our ozzie bus driver explained the seasons in Darwin, all two of them, wet and dry. He explained the swift sunsets, one minute light, the next minute dark. I wonder if that affects the peronalities of the people, things are either black or white, no shades of grey.
Recovering the luggage in our room gave me my first photo opportunity. Came to unlock my suitcase, and discovered I'd left the key in Sydney. The maintenance man, a big cheerful islander guy, came to the recsue armed with enormous bolt cutters, the only ones they had. The tiny lock didn't stand a chance. Snip.We laughed.
There are 55 different nationalities in Darwin and we saw most of them at the Mindil Beach Sunset Market, mainly reflected in the cuisines on offer. We sampled prawn satays - delicious; a large fruit drink freshly made - refreshing; a not so succesful grilled fish basket becuse it was overcooked. Barramundi like leather, baby octupus rubbery. The mussels and prawns were okay, salad passable, chips regulation.
We found out the locals bring their own tables and chairs and they don't like it when you stand in front of them looking for a place to sit. The snake demonstration must have been riveting to incur that degree of rudeness. We ended up sitting on a narrow strip of concrete risking our eyes being taken out by the local kids practising their juggling and hula hooping in front of us.
Never mind. We didn't miss the spectacle of the sun turning red and seeming to drop into the ocean. The
beach was crowded with people filming as I was.
One of our party paddled in the ocean and came off the beach with black feet courtesy of the sand. This is not Vincenzia or Huskisson.
Hot, tired and almost crabby, most of us were ready for the aircon of our hotel half an hour before the deadline. But the champagne lifted us for a while before a nice cup of tea, a shower and bed.
Should I mention the heat that hit us when we left the airport? Hard to do while avoiding cliches like blast furnace, hot oven, steam bath etc. so I won't!
Bushie (I kid you not) our ozzie bus driver explained the seasons in Darwin, all two of them, wet and dry. He explained the swift sunsets, one minute light, the next minute dark. I wonder if that affects the peronalities of the people, things are either black or white, no shades of grey.
Recovering the luggage in our room gave me my first photo opportunity. Came to unlock my suitcase, and discovered I'd left the key in Sydney. The maintenance man, a big cheerful islander guy, came to the recsue armed with enormous bolt cutters, the only ones they had. The tiny lock didn't stand a chance. Snip.We laughed.
There are 55 different nationalities in Darwin and we saw most of them at the Mindil Beach Sunset Market, mainly reflected in the cuisines on offer. We sampled prawn satays - delicious; a large fruit drink freshly made - refreshing; a not so succesful grilled fish basket becuse it was overcooked. Barramundi like leather, baby octupus rubbery. The mussels and prawns were okay, salad passable, chips regulation.
We found out the locals bring their own tables and chairs and they don't like it when you stand in front of them looking for a place to sit. The snake demonstration must have been riveting to incur that degree of rudeness. We ended up sitting on a narrow strip of concrete risking our eyes being taken out by the local kids practising their juggling and hula hooping in front of us.
Never mind. We didn't miss the spectacle of the sun turning red and seeming to drop into the ocean. The
beach was crowded with people filming as I was.
One of our party paddled in the ocean and came off the beach with black feet courtesy of the sand. This is not Vincenzia or Huskisson.
Hot, tired and almost crabby, most of us were ready for the aircon of our hotel half an hour before the deadline. But the champagne lifted us for a while before a nice cup of tea, a shower and bed.
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
packing...slowly
More like gradually accumulating really. As I think of things I put them in the suitcase. Only one medium size allowed for the Darwin - Broome trip plus a medium size bag for carry on, and on the bus. Have re-thought the latter and decided on a backpack (I'm thinking of the overhead rack on the bus, more suited to soft bags than the small suitcase on wheels I'd previously thought of.
Since my new red sandals arrived have re-thought my colour scheme for UK/USA. It will feature red and aqua, plus more black than white. For Darwin, aqua and white will predominate. Me and the aqua aerobics gals discussed how many cozzies to take, decided on 2 since on one of the bus rides we stop at a pool with the option to swim. Might be good to have a spare, and they don't weigh much.
Sunscreen, hat and insect repleent essential.
Purchased the Britrail flexipass this week, only 4 journeys this time, one to Wigan and back, one to Brighton and back. The rest of the time I am getting rides with friends and family, how lucky is that.
Since my new red sandals arrived have re-thought my colour scheme for UK/USA. It will feature red and aqua, plus more black than white. For Darwin, aqua and white will predominate. Me and the aqua aerobics gals discussed how many cozzies to take, decided on 2 since on one of the bus rides we stop at a pool with the option to swim. Might be good to have a spare, and they don't weigh much.
Sunscreen, hat and insect repleent essential.
Purchased the Britrail flexipass this week, only 4 journeys this time, one to Wigan and back, one to Brighton and back. The rest of the time I am getting rides with friends and family, how lucky is that.
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Darwin-Broome-New Orleans news
Had a good read of the Darwin-Broome itinerary this morning. The striking thing is that we do a diamond mine, then go on to pearls all against a backdrop of million acre ranches, dramatic scenery and serene lakes and rivers populated by crocodiles, the saltwater kind, different from my African experience but dangerous none the less. Am still trying to decide whether to do the flight over the Bungle Bungles; will check with my son in law pilot before making a decision.
Sent off the media assistance form To New Orleans CVB this morning. Have identified several angles from which to write, emphasising the forthcoming literary festival in March 2011 . They directed me to the coolest website where you can plan your own itinerary, identifiying Editor's picks and crowd pleasers. It is very simple. You just click on the hour and 2 or 3 choices come up. The coolest thing is that you get a sense of the really interesting things to do there as well as the not so well known. You can find it at http://www.24nola.com
It looks as though the Saturday morning market is a must.
Sent off the media assistance form To New Orleans CVB this morning. Have identified several angles from which to write, emphasising the forthcoming literary festival in March 2011 . They directed me to the coolest website where you can plan your own itinerary, identifiying Editor's picks and crowd pleasers. It is very simple. You just click on the hour and 2 or 3 choices come up. The coolest thing is that you get a sense of the really interesting things to do there as well as the not so well known. You can find it at http://www.24nola.com
It looks as though the Saturday morning market is a must.
Monday, August 9, 2010
Shaping up
The trip is coming together nicely. My niece Krista is joining us in New Orleans and, fingers crossed, a dear friend, David will join us in Nashville. A reunion is arranged in the UK with my nursing friends in early Sept. We first met in 1957! Reminiscences will no doubt be flying. (Must remember to pack the old black and whites from those days.)
Final flight and travel details are in place for Darwin-Broome. Looks like a very interesting trip. I must say I'm looking forward to some warm air, although today is promising 19 degrees C, not bad for winter.
Am developing ideas for articles and will get in touch with the New Orleans tourist people this week.
Final flight and travel details are in place for Darwin-Broome. Looks like a very interesting trip. I must say I'm looking forward to some warm air, although today is promising 19 degrees C, not bad for winter.
Am developing ideas for articles and will get in touch with the New Orleans tourist people this week.
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
Travel Insurance and packing
Have been researching travel insurance deals on and off for weeks now. Finally bit the bullet today. Prices are much of a muchness but I selected Allianz for 2 reasons. 1) Their website was clear and esay to read. 2) Their higher prices kick in when you are 71 or older. It's great to still qualify for something not in the 'sorry but you're too old' bracket.
Bought two cheap white stretch strappy tops from Target for the tropical leg of my journey. Very handy to throw a shirt or fancy top over in the evening or wear 'as is' in the heat of the day. light and easy to pack, wash out easily.
Am curently strategising how to get by on the American legs of my trips with one check-in suitcase. Unlike QANTAS they charge extra for extra bags. I'm planning on travelling light but...not that light!
I've settled on the colour ranges of mix and match; aqua and pinky/purple preferably not together. This way you don't double up on things too much. I'll proabably have to try the old maxim, pack what you need and halve it.
Bought two cheap white stretch strappy tops from Target for the tropical leg of my journey. Very handy to throw a shirt or fancy top over in the evening or wear 'as is' in the heat of the day. light and easy to pack, wash out easily.
Am curently strategising how to get by on the American legs of my trips with one check-in suitcase. Unlike QANTAS they charge extra for extra bags. I'm planning on travelling light but...not that light!
I've settled on the colour ranges of mix and match; aqua and pinky/purple preferably not together. This way you don't double up on things too much. I'll proabably have to try the old maxim, pack what you need and halve it.
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